Iguanas:
Basic Needs
Diet
Temperature
Housing
Lighting
General Information
Health Information
Anoles:
Basic Needs
Diet
Temperature/Lighting
Housing
General Info
- Aquarium: For housing, large enough for growth
- Light Fixture: For fluorescent & incandescent bulbs
- Fluorescent Reptile Bulb: Supplies UV rays necessary for calcium absorption
- Screen Cover: Secures pet, allows penetration of UV rays
- Day Bulb: Supplies heat and for basking
- Night Bulb: Supplies heat without light
- Under Tank Heater: Supplies heat
- Thermometer: Monitors temperature
- Terrarium Liner: Easy to clean and disinfect
- Calcium Supplement: Necessary to prevent calcium deficiencies
- Vitamins: For better nutrition & health
- Reptile Water Dish: Large enough for the reptile to soak
- Reptile Food Dish: Should be flat for easy access to food
- Fresh Foods: Main source of nutrition
- Dry Reptile Chow: Added to fresh foods for a more complete diet
- Live Foods: Protein is needed for juvenile iguanas
- Sprays & Remedies: Good health & appearance
- Driftwood: Climbing & hiding
- Plants: Climbing & hiding
- Humidity Gauge: Necessary for monitoring moisture
- Background: Decorative purposes
- Books: For general information, reference, and good care
Green Iguana Care
Farm raised iguanas can make excellent pets and can live 10 -15 years in captivity with proper care.
Iguanas require fresh food & water daily. 80% of the diet should be a mixture of shredded or chopped vegetables. Three-fourths of the vegetable salad should be dark green leafy varieties such as spinach, collard greens, kale, chard, parsley, water cress, and Chinese cabbage. The remaining one-fourth of the vegetable salad should be a mixture of carrots, squash, beans (green, wax & lima), okra, peas, sweet potatoes & squash. 10% of the daily diet should be a fruit mixture (apples, pears, figs, apricots, grapes, kiwi, strawberries & melon). The remaining 10% should be a dry chow such as Nutrigrow®. Mix the vegetables, fruit and dry chow together. A light sprinkling of a calcium/mineral powder should be added to the food three times a week.
Chlorine should be removed from your pet’s drinking water. We can show you several products that will instantly remove the chlorine.
A daytime temperature of 85°-90° is necessary for good health. The basking area should be 95°-100°. An incandescent bulb should maintain these temperatures. A lower temperature of 75°-80° is desired at night. An undertank heating pad will help maintain this temperature. Misting the iguana with water daily will provide the necessary humidity.
Iguanas are solitary animals in nature. Keeping one iguana per aquarium is recommended. A 20-30 gallon aquarium is a good starter size home, but larger housing will be needed as the iguana grows (iguanas can grow to 4-6 feet). Provide a flat water bowl large enough for the iguana to soak in as desired. Driftwood is recommended for climbing and basking. A terrarium liner is recommended for the bottom of the aquarium. The liner is washable and mildew resistant. A replacement liner is a good idea to provide a clean dry liner while one is being washed.
Proper lighting is critical to iguana health. A fluorescent reptile bulb is necessary for strong bone growth. It supplies the UV rays that are necessary for the iguana to produce vitamin D3, which is essential for the absorption and utilization of calcium. The light should be above a screen cover to allow UVA and UVB ray penetration (UV rays cannot penetrate glass or plastic). An incandescent bulb above the driftwood, should be provided for basking. Make sure that the basking area is low enough to prevent the iguana from getting burned. 10-12 hours of daily light is recommended.
General Information about Green Iguanas
- Lay eggs to reproduce.
- Grow to the length of 4-6 feet with proper care.
- Live 10-15 years in captivity with proper care.
- Males grow larger than females.
- Females are heavier in the body than males.
- Males have larger dorsal crests than females.
- Both sexes make great pets.
- One iguana per cage.
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Caution! The Center for Disease Control recommends the following for preventing disease:
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Health Information
Metabolic Bone Disease
This disease is seen in baby iguanas as a soft lower jaw and deformities of the back and legs. Osteoporosis and fibrous osteodystrophy may occur in an adult iguana. Symptoms are swollen hind legs and a swollen lower jaw. One of the most common problems associated with diet, metabolic bone disease, is caused by calcium deficiency. Diets that have low levels of calcium and high levels of phosphorus as well as the lack of vitamin D3, which is derived from UV light, contribute to this problem. The best way to prevent metabolic bone disease is to feed an adequate diet with vitamin and mineral supplements and vitamin D3. (See diet and lighting in this brochure.)
Vitamin B Deficiency
Deformities and swelling of the limbs are symptoms of this deficiency. Vitamin B deficiency is often misdiagnosed as calcium deficiency. B vitamins administered orally and adding Brewer’s yeast to the diet, usually cures this disorder within a week. An injection of B vitamins will treat this faster.
Parasites
Large visible parasites such as ticks should be carefully removed. Make sure to remove the head of the tick. Mites can be eliminated with a regular bath, various commercial preparations, and by keeping a clean environment. Regular, preventative wormings can help eliminate internal parasites.
Mouth Rot
White or yellow spots in the mouth or in severe cases a general inflammation of the mouth, are common signs of this infection. This condition can prevent the reptile from eating and can lead to starvation.
Respiratory Infection
This condition is seen as a foamy discharge or mucus from the mouth and/or nose. It can usually be cured by keeping the reptile warm and medicating with antibiotics prescribed by a reptile veterinarian.
Thermal Burns
Provide heat in a manner that prevents iguanas from laying directly against a dangerously warm heat source. Superficial burns will heal but can leave scars. Serious burns will require more extensive treatment.
Nose Abrasion
The iguana rubbing its nose against the sides of the cage (wire, wood or glass) can cause serious nose abrasions. Housing, in most cases, is inadequate. Treatment must start with better housing conditions. In most cases, applying an antibiotic ointment prescribed by a reptile veterinarian should heal the wound.
- Aquarium: Housing
- Light Fixture: For fluorescent & incandescent bulbs
- Fluorescent Reptile Bulb: Supplies UV rays necessary for calcium absorption
- Screen Cover: Secures pet, allows penetration of UV rays
- Incandescent Light For basking & heat
- Under Tank Heater: Supplies heat
- Thermometer: Monitors temperature
- Terrarium Liner: Easy to clean and disinfect
- Vitamins: For better nutrition & health
- Water Dish/Drip Bottle: Supplies fresh, clean water
- Live Food: Supplies nutrition
- Sprays & Remedies: Good health & appearance
- Driftwood: For climbing & hiding
- Plants: For climbing & hiding
- Background: Decorative purposes
- Books: For general information, reference, and good care
Anole Care
An anole’s natural diet mostly consists of bugs and some berries. Feeding a variety of foods and using a quality reptile vitamin and mineral supplement are essential for good health.
An incandescent bulb or basking light in a reflector type fixture should be placed at one end of the aquarium to provide heat. For a 10 gallon aquarium a 40 to 60 watt bulb should provide an adequate temperature of 70°F - 74°F. Ideally, for the absorption and utilization of calcium, a fluorescent reptile bulb should be placed on top of the aquarium.
A ten gallon aquarium with a screen top works well. A terrarium liner is recommended for the bottom of the aquarium. The liner is washable and mildew resistant. A replacement liner is a good idea to provide a clean dry liner while one is being washed. Anoles are arboreal (tree dwelling or shrub dwelling) and require suitable climbing areas. Plants and driftwood are ideal.
General Information about Green Anoles
- Lay eggs to reproduce.
- Grow to an adult size of up to 8 inches.
- Can live 3-6 years with proper care.
- Change color from green to shades of brown.
- Drink water from licking dew or condensation off leaves or from a dish.
- Males are territorial and will challenge other males.
- Males grow larger than the female.
- Can climb up glass as well as anything else.
- Are comfortable at cooler temperatures, best at 72°F.
- Only species of anole native to the U.S.
