Jack's Aquarium and Pets - Saltwater Tips

Saltwater Fish Tips

Essential items
Setting up your aquarium
Filtration
Establishing the nitrogen cycle
Adding fish
Fish compatibility
Feeding fish
Aquarium maintenance
Signs of water quality problems
Solving water quality problems
Guarantee

Aquarium: Housing for fish & invertebrates
Light: Secures fish/helps algae growth, enhances colors
Aquarium Stand: Evenly supports weight of an aquarium
Filter System: Maintains good water quality
Filter Media: Removes debris & impurities from water
Marine Substrate: Helps buffer water and keep pH higher; supports beneficial bacteria
Heater: Maintains a constant warm temperature
Thermometer: Monitors water temperature
Jack's Complete Water Conditioner: Removes chlorine from tap water
Marine Salt: Contains necessary trace elements
Hydrometer: Measures salt content of the water
Fish Food: Supplies nutrition
Bio-Boost: Starts nitrogen cycle in the aquarium
Gravel Cleaner: Removes excess debris from gravel
Books: For general information and good care
Air Pump: Supplies oxygen to the water
Check Valve: Prevents water from siphoning back into air pump
Air Stones: Disperse bubbles into the water for oxygen and circulation
Gang Valve: To operate multiple aeration devices
Air line tubing: Path for air to flow from pump to aeration device
Background: Makes aquarium more attractive, fish show up better
Coral: Provides hiding places, helps buffer pH level
Fish Net: Healthy, easy way to remove fish
Algae Scrubber: Removes algae buildup on aquarium glass
Ammonia Test Kit: Monitors harmful levels of ammonia in the water
Nitrite Test kit: Monitors harmful levels of nitrites in the water
Nitrate Test Kit: Monitors harmful levels of nitrates in the water
pH Test Kit: Monitors degree of acidity or alkalinity of water

Rinse the aquarium with warm water. Position the aquarium away from direct sunlight. Place the aquarium on a sturdy and level surface. Aquarium stands are designed to prevent pressure cracks.
Put the filter together and place on the aquarium. Add water to the aquarium until 1/3 full. If using a wet/dry filter, finish steps 1 thru 4 before setting up the filter.
Thoroughly rinse marine substrate several times and gently place on the under gravel filter (if being used). The substrate should be sloped so it is higher in the back. If using a wet/dry filter, be sure that the marine substrate is no more than 1/4" deep.
Decorate aquarium. Use only properly treated coral, shells and plastic plants. Fill the aquarium with treated water.
Plug in the filter, powerheads or air pump to begin circulation of the water. The cloudiness is normal but will disappear as the water circulates through the gravel.
Add a heater to the aquarium. Wait 15 minutes before plugging it in. Adjust temperature to 74°-78°F.
Add enough marine salt to obtain the correct specific gravity level (1.019 for fish or 1.024 - 1.025 for a reef and invertebrates). Stir and allow the salt to dissolve completely as you adjust the specific gravity level.
Add the glass canopy and lighting. Light aids in the growth of algae which provides oxygen and food for the fish. Green algae is the most beneficial algae for the aquarium (for larger or deeper aquariums a second strip light is recommended). Avoid letting algae growth cover the substrate as this will restrict proper water flow.
After 24 hours, the aquarium water should be tested. Bring in a sample of water (1 cup) to be tested, or we will instruct you on how to use your own test kits

Test results should be:
pH 8.0 to 8.4
Ammonia 0.0
Nitrite 0.0
Nitrate 0.0
Salinity (fish) 1.019
Salinity (invertebrate) 1.024 to 1.025

Add fish. See Adding Fish section. AddBio-Boost to the aquarium to begin the nitrogen cycle. Monitor the ammonia and nitrite levels closely. Add only a few hardy fish until the nitrogen cycle is complete. Every new aquarium must go through this cycle before it is biologically balanced and there are enough beneficial bacteria to dispose of all the ammonia and nitrite waste produced by the fish. This normally takes 4-8 weeks.

Mechanical: physical removal of debris and particles from water with the use of foams, pads, or filter cartridges.
Chemical: absorption of pollutants by using types of carbon or a Poly filter®. Use carbon recommended for marine aquariums only.
Biological: encourages growth of beneficial bacteria which break down ammonia and nitrites to nitrates (Nitrogen cycle).
Power filter: an external filter, pulls water out of aquarium, through filter media and back into the aquarium. Usually biological, mechanical & chemical.
Canister filter: an external filter, pulls water out of the aquarium through the filter media and back into the aquarium. Biological, mechanical & chemical.
Undergravel filter: an internal filtering system, a plate that goes under the gravel with lift tubes that are operated by using powerheads. This is a biological system.
Wet/dry filter: an external filter, pulls water out of the aquarium, drips through filter media. Clean water is pumped back into the aquarium. Biological, mechanical and chemical.

Ammonia - 1st stage of cycle
Nitrite - 2nd stage of cycle
Nitrate - 3rd stage of cycle
Harmful compounds (ammonia & nitrites) change into beneficial (nitrates) for a balanced environment for fish and plants.

We suggest adding 2-3 inches of fish per each 10 gallons when starting a new aquarium.
Fish recommended to start a new aquarium: Tank raised Clowns and Damsels. Triggers, Wrasses, Groupers, Gobies, Pseudochromis, Grammas and Hawkfish may be used.
Fish we do not recommend to start a new aquarium are Angels, Lionfish, Tangs and Butterfly Fish.
Always have a sales associate feed the fish before your purchase to ensure that it is eating.
Acclimate fish: Float the fish in the bag in the aquarium for 10 minutes for the temperature to adjust. Net your new fish out of the bag. Remove the bag of water and discard it.

Click here to see a saltwater fish compatibility chart.

Fish Compatibility

Marine fish are typically very territorial. Before adding new fish, breakup existing territories by moving coral/rocks, feeding the fish and turning off the light. Please, ask if you are not sure about compatibility of fish.

Feeding Fish

We recommend feeding fish, in an established aquarium, 2-3 times daily. (Except fish that eat live feeder fish.) Feed only what the fish can eat within 1 minute. Feed fish lightly with a newer aquarium until aquarium has cycled. The major cause of cloudy water is over feeding.
Fish should be fed a variety of foods: staple flake food, specialty flake food, frozen brine shrimp, specialty frozen food, live food, freeze dried food.
Fish that eat live feeder fish can be fed three times a week. The number of live feeder fish needed may vary depending on the fish. A feeder fish diet alone is not sufficient for fish to thrive.

Mix new water in a clean plastic bucket or plastic trash can. Aerate and heat to aquarium temperature.
Add Jack's Complete Water Conditioner to tap water to remove clorine.
Add marine salt to water, adjusting specific gravity.
Unplug heater, powerheads or filter system.
Wipe inside walls of aquarium with algae pad.
Make a 20% water change every 4 weeks using a gravel cleaner. Clean under coral/rocks.
Check temperature of new water before adding to aquarium or float the new water in a plastic bag. Release the water when it has reached the same temperature as the aquarium water.
Restart filter system. Plug in heater.
Wipe/shine outside glass and glass canopy.

Water test indicates high ammonia, nitrite or nitrate
Fish have red streaks in fins or clamped fins
Fish gasping at the surface or breathing rapidly
Fish develop bacterial infections
Fish death
Bad odor or a yellow cast to water
Foam at the water’s surface

Reducing ammonia and nitrite levels...

Ammonia is the first stage and nitrite is the second stage of the nitrogen cycle. They are present in a new aquarium because there is not enough of the beneficial bacteria established to break down the fish waste by-products.

If ammonia is 4 ppm or higher and/or nitrite is 2 ppm or higher, make up to a 50% water change with a gravel siphon, removing excess debris from the gravel. Add Jack's Complete Water Conditioner and marine salt to the replacement water (water must be the same temperature as the aquarium water).
Change carbon or add Polyfilter® & increase aeration.
Add Bio-Boost or other products that aid in speeding up the nitrogen cycle.
Since overcrowding and overfeeding are major causes of high ammonia, only add recommended amounts of fish and reduce the amount of food being fed.
Make sure filtration is adequate for the aquarium.
Test water daily.
50% water change and addition of Cycle® may be repeated every other day until ammonia or nitrite level is reduced.

Reducing nitrate levels...

Nitrate is the final stage of the nitrogen cycle and normally present in an established aquarium. Nitrates are normally not a problem for fish, however, a high nitrate level will lower the pH levels. Also, high nitrates are harmful to many invertebrates

Make regular monthly water changes with a gravel siphon to control nitrates. Add Jack's Complete Water Conditioner and marine salt to replacement water (water must be the same temperature as the aquarium water).
If nitrates can not be lowered by the method above, cleaning beneath the under gravel filter and changing part of the gravel may be necessary.
Add a nitrate reducing agent to the filter.
Clean/change filter media and carbon.
Since overcrowding, overfeeding and infrequent water changes can cause high nitrates, follow the guidelines for the amount of fish suggested, reduce the amount of food being fed and do more frequent water changes.
Test water weekly.

Thank you for shopping at Jack’s Aquarium & Pets. If you have any questions or concerns, please feel free to call us, or better yet, stop in an and let us know how your fish are doing. At Jack’s Aquarium & Pets, we sell the highest quality of fish possible with one of the best guarantees in the industry.

We guarantee our marine fish for SEVEN DAYS at 100% replacement value. We are unable to give cash refunds on fish or invertebrates. Fish loss due to incompatibility or jumping out of the aquarium are excluded.

Should a problem occur, please bring in the following:

The receipt
The deceased fish
A sample of aquarium water (1cup), without the fish in it.

We want to help prevent any fish losses. We will test your aquarium water at no charge. If there is a problem with your water quality, we recommend that no fish be added until the water quality is corrected.